Lounge Suit (detail), made in India for the European market, 1860s. From lacma.org.
Zoot suit trouser shape transforms the harem pant aesthetic for male dress. Example from LACMA's "Reigning Men" exhibition
Zoot Suit, United States, 1940--42. lacma.org.
Description from the Liberty website: "Celebrating the hand-crafted medium of torn collage, the Constantine Liberty print guides us through an alluring Eastern world of enticing exotic flowers, tumultuous, tumbling oceans and the sun streaked skies of ancient India."
Description from the Liberty website: " Detailed glimpses at the prized antiquities, famed landmarks and iconic symbols collected along the well travelled Silk Road are featured in the East Meets West Liberty print. Motifs and treasured articles held great influence and were exchanged from one civilization to another, infiltrating new cultures and integrating into existing artistic pursuits."
Description from the Liberty website: "Fragmented prints combine harmoniously to create a mosaic of dashing dots and scattered stars. Elements strongly linked to Ottoman heritage and Islamic art effortlessly run through this stand-out Liberty print."
Description from the Liberty website: "Capturing the beauty of traditional Central Asian silk warp ikat garments, this Bosphorus Liberty print celebrates the craft of the specialist weavers and dyers situated along the Silk Road. Characteristically large scale and dyed with vibrant colours the principal use of these fabrics was to create heavily quilted outer garments typically for the local Jewish communities. Unlike the craft of several other cultures this particular ikat tradition does not honor or place importance on a precise outline of patterning but instead desires the aesthetic achievement of a bold effect."
Description from the Liberty website: "Offering a vibrance and beauty to rival the arid landscapes synonymous with Central Asia, the softly blurred effect of this Beyoglu Liberty print ikat imitates reflections in a pool of water which acted as a refuge from the oppressive heat and created an illusion of a lush garden."
Description from the Liberty website: "This breathtaking large scale Liberty print celebrates beautiful, hand embroidered decorative textiles from Kazakhstan and surrounding Central Asian countries. The use of bold shape and vivid colour in the Suzani Circles print mimic the eye-catching motifs that often adorn the surfaces of these much sought after textiles."
Description from the Liberty website: "A smaller scale interpretation of a modern homage to the history of Central Asian textiles runs throughout the Sun Disks Liberty print. Trailing vines and leaves entwine between the loose geometry of the carefully curated sun and moon disks."
Description from liberty.co.uk:
"Celebrating the visual spectacle offered by the bustling nature of Turkish souks and markets, Grand Bazaar is a sensational visual show of pattern and colour. Exotic spices, aromatic buds and dried flowers dazzle and dance in this bountiful Liberty print in an assault on the senses."
18th-c. French East India Company kimono-style man's dressing gown, fabric from the Coromandel Coast, India, made for the Dutch market
Man's dressing gown, first half 18th century, painted and dyed cotton, fabric from the Coromandel Coast, India, and made for the Dutch market. From palaisgalliera.paris.fr.
Description from the Musée Galliera website, written by Pascale Gorguet-Ballesteros:
"Increasingly popular in the second half of the 17th century, cotton dressing gowns were known in France as indiennes, a reference to the Indian provenance of the painted and dyed fabrics imported by the French East India Company.
This kimono-style dressing gown testifies to the role played by Holland in the European craze for this kind of garment. Holland was the only country allowed to trade with Japan and the Shoguns customarily offered 30 kimonos to Dutch officials when trade treaties were signed. The ornamentation of this dressing gown mingles the pines and plum trees that were often associated with bamboo in evocations of the qualities of a gentleman. The 'Indian cotton' used was made in India for the Dutch market. The Dutch seem to have been particularly fond of this decor, as several examples are to be found in their museums. This dressing gown is proof that in terms of textiles and clothing, a successful pattern could go on being reproduced."
Nikoo Paydar has a PhD in art history from the Courtauld Institute, London.